Cashmere or “Kashmiri” is the name given to a particular kind of luxury wool that makes extremely soft, warm shawls and stoles for the winter season.  In fact, the word Cashmere is given by the British when they colonized India some 200 years ago, and discovered this magnificent piece of winter garment that they had never seen before with such elaborate and intricate artwork done all over them.

Kashmir stands on the top most part of India, a valley in the lap of the Himalayas.  Being rich in natural beauty of the graceful mighty Himalayas, overlooking the snow clad mountains, this region enjoys snow during the harsh winter months.  Surviving here minus the modern day amenities would be unthinkable. However, these lovely people cherish and enjoy the climate and the picturesque view. Dubbed as the Valley of Gods, this place is a beauty to behold.  Sitting in the valley, amidst blue lakes, white mountains, and a crisp winter air, this place resonates beauty in all aspects. This is what influences the people who create such magnificent wonders in the form of shawls and stoles, embroidery and craft work along with carpet weaving, wood works and other crafts that this region is famous for.

Kashmiri pronounced as Cash-mee-ree, translates literally meaning “belonging to Kashmir” as it originated here.  The Cashmere wool is special wool that is super soft to touch and is silky smooth on the skin.  Cashmere wool or Pashm (the Persian word for wool and Pashmina is the Persian/ Urdu word derived from wool) is taken from a special goat called the  Capra Hircus Laniger, not a sheep as is the case for all other wool.   This goat is only found at an altitude of 4000 ft. high in Kashmir. This is the wool from the undercoat or the belly region of a goat, and hence the softness.  The wool is taken from the goat during spring time as it is during this season that the goat sheds its hair naturally. Cashmere which may appear to be a silk garment but is not and in fact, pure Cashmere is not supposed to have any other materials blend with it.  It is not only of fine quality, but is also softer, smoother and stronger and approximately 3 times more warmer than ordinary sheep wool.

The Pashmina are finer and more authentic Cashmeres.  These shawls are extra fine and extremely light in weight.  Being born in Kashmir, India, Pashmina reflects its real meaning, soft gold.  Pashminas are extremely soft, and lighter than Cashmere, and at the same time, warmer than any wool.  They are also known to pass through from one generation to another. Being exquisite in nature, these are regarded as a possession rather than a shawl.  These shawls became to be known to pass through a ring easily during earlier times. Softer than silk, and warmer than any wool, Pashminas are famous all over the world since ancient times.

 

Pashmina by Irakoi

The wool comes from 4 distinct breeds of the Cashmere goat.  The Kashmiris call this goat the Changthangi / Changra / Chegu / Malra or even the Pashmina goat.  This is a special and extremely rare breed of goat (constitutes around 0.01% of the entire goat population, hence the extreme cost factor) otherwise known as the Capra Hircus in scientific language, inhabits the areas of Ladakh in Jammu & Kashmir region in India.  They are raised for the very fine fine luxurious cashmere wool, which is also known as the Pashmina once it is woven.  These goats are raised by originally, by a nomadic tribe called the Changpa in the Ladakh area and in the Baltistan area of Kashmir, who are a sub sect of the Buddhist community, called the Drokpa.

These Pashmina goats are only found at an altitude of 4000 ft and above, in the Himalayas, grow a thick, warm, fine and soft undercoat, and are the source to the world famous Cashmere, and the Pashminas.  The wool from these goats measure between 12 – 15 microns in the fiber thickness, and the length is between 55 -60 mm. This particular fiber is crimped and, is soft and extremely warm. By industry standards, this fiber to be Cashmere, it needs to be less than 19 microns.  To understand this better we can compare this to human hair. A human hair is 17- 181 microns in diameter. A Cashmere wool strand should be less than 19 microns as per industry standards. (One micron is one millionth of a meter.) So, each fiber in a Cashmere and a Pashmina is extremely soft, and very, very fine.  Further, the crimp in the fiber is what makes is lightest, and warmest. The availability of these goats at such high freezing altitude, and the high quality of the fiber is what makes Cashmere and Pashmina so expensive. Being hand spun and hand woven, these very special shawls are a mark of majestic quality to enjoy a lifetime.

These goats survive on grass in Ladakh, a region where temperatures dip to as low as −20 °C .  Shawls made from Pashmina wool are considered very fine, and are extremely well respected for the fine and rare quality of the wool.  These are in great demand all over the world and are exported worldwide. It is the top coat of the goat that is coarse and rough, which is cheap, is used for cheaper versions of cashmere.  It is only from the wool from the underbelly of the goat, that the fine cashmere is woven, which is purest, strongest, softest and warmest. Sometimes it takes wool from 5 – 6 or more goats to make a shawl which is in pure form of Cashmere.

It is not only the wool, but also the intricate craftsmanship that makes Cashmere of what it stands for, quality on warmth combined with exotic, elegant and most beautiful design patterns.

How to distinguish a pure Cashmere or a Pashmina

By touch.  The cashmere has to feel in with your skin.  Its softness and smoothness should blend in with your skin and make you feel it.  The softness, will immediately start radiating warmth under your skin and give you a cozy smooth feel.  Once you get used to a cashmere, it will be difficult to go back to coarse and rough wool products, especially on the neck area, which in itself is very soft.  For a Pashmina, you will feel the extra softness, and the instant warmth on your skin. This is a 100% natural product, and you will feel alive with its warmth instantly.  The connection is such that you will feel it is a part of your body, and skin instantly.

Also, all Cashmere and Pashminas have their distinct motifs that make it truly exotic and exquisite.  This is something unique from Kashmir region and very ethnic in nature.

History

How old is this

The history of Cashmere comes from a long way.  There are many influences, mainly from the Persian arts, the Mughals fused with the Indian styles that we see here.  Records say that it was it was worn by the Mughals, who ruled India, from 1526 – 1857 and patronized them strongly.  Elegance of the regale wear came from the cashmere and the pashminas. Garments were woven out of rare wool, and created with gold and other ornaments to glorify the royalty.  Each piece of such garment, was hand woven, and took from months to years to complete. During the 15th century, the ruler of Kashmir, Zayn-ul-Abidin started promoting it and nurturing this fine art.  Groups of weavers traveled from Turkey, and came and settled down in Kashmir.  So we see a varied influence of the stitches, and craftsmanship in the Cashmere.  

One part of the records say that Zayn-ul-Abidin introduced weavers from Turkestan or Turkey during the 15th Century.  Other sources say that the cashmere craftsmen were introduced by Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani in the the 14th century.  Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani introduced a group of 700 weavers and craftsmen from Persia.  During their travels, they came to Ladakh, India and found the goat that could produce such soft wool.  They wove socks and gifted to the then kind of Kashmir, Sultan Kutabdin. The king was pleasantly pleased and allowed Hamadani to settle down and start their shawl weaving using their craftsmanship with the new wool they discovered.  As per records of the UNESCO, Ali Hamadani was responsible and credited for introducing Cashmere, leading to the generation of new found wealth in their economy and livelihood.

With the British advent, the Cashmere found its markets in the rest of Asia and Europe, and was immediately a huge success.  People had never seen nor experienced such magnificence. There was big demand and only the aristocrats could afford to wear this exotic and exquisite garment.  The Queen was also presented with the Cashmere, as an unique hand crafted gift from India. European markets started demanding Cashmere especially in Scotland, and eventually all over Europe.    The world fell spellbound and attracted to this marvelous piece of wool.

Process

Coming down to us from one generation to another, this skillful hand art takes ages to master and perfect.  The shawl weavers have been passing their skills on to their children and so started the journey of the most beautiful Cashmere to us.  The men and women in the family take part in the very intricate embroidery, spinning, whereas men are mostly seen weaving them on the hand looms.  Various kinds of needles and embroidery patterns are used to make them look stunning and beautiful.

 

An 1867 William Simpson painting depicting men in Kashmir manufacturing shawls using pashm wool  (Picture courtesy Wikipedia)

 

Irakoi brings to you authentic Cashmere from Kashmir, made by the Kashmiri people.  The makers have been making these shawls and stoles since generations and selling them for their livelihood.  Shawl makers are families that work together to produce a shawl, and the every member of the house puts in their contribution towards making a shawl or a stole.  These people belong to the rural regions and are generally living in poor conditions in harsh climatic conditions. Irakoi aims to support their endeavor and bring out the magnificent stoles to the world.  

True to their artistic blend with wool, these stoles can be used as a brilliant gift to your mother or anyone you love. Cashmere wraps make you look fabulously in fashion and style, during spring/fall and winters.  Keep their hearts warm by giving a luxurious gift, and help an artisan somewhere in another corner of the world so that they can give a better life to their children.

For any information or queries, please feel free to reach us at shiuli@irakoi.com