Kutch Embroidery is a very impressive, interesting tribal folk art over fabric.   This is a traditional culture from the largest salt deserts of the world, the Rann of Kutch in Gujarat, India.  Coming to us from a few handful villages in the Kutch District, this art embroils a very beautiful and interesting kaleidoscope like effect, showcasing the signature embroidery work of the Kutch Tribals.  

Kutch Embroidery is purely done by hand.  This is done on long rectangular or square cotton or silk cloth of different sizes decorated with a mix of embroidery stitching to create patterns or designs.  The remarkable effect that this art creates is the magnificent use of colors combined with mirror works in between, sewn mostly in geometrical patterns using different color of threads from the usual bright delightful colors to the use of wool and silk.  They also use golden/silver metallic threads. These are usually created by the women sitting across while gossiping or singing to make use of their free time. These decorated fabrics are usually used mostly during festive times as decorated clothing, as well as to decorate the houses.

Sometimes beads, mirrors and sequins are also used.  These embroidered cloths are used to decorate, to liven up the rooms and walls of a house.  These arts have been flowing in this region since centuries and has been always been a part of the tradition of Gujarat.

Origin

The history of Kutch Embroidery can be traced back to the 16th and 17th century with the local cattle breeders and with the influx of people from other countries like Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq and even Germans.  Together this led to the creation of a variety of needle works to show elements, patterns, designs and motifs.

Originated in the hot desert region, the women sit indoors and take up this activity to create an interesting ambience in their homes, add colors to their dressing and so on.  Being rural in character, they are usually living in poverty conditions. They also sell their work and earn a source of living out of selling these beautiful hand craft. Irakoi hopes to help such women achieve more recognition and appreciation for their work by promoting their work as far as possible.

The region of Gujarat is also known for their usage of bright and colorful decorations.  This embroidery is seen in the form of colorful dressings, wall hangings, bed covers, pillow or cushion covers, hand bags made of cloth and other decorative items to brighten the inside of their homes.  The tapestry can also be placed under glass table tops to give it a decorative brilliant art look to the house. Kutch embroidery is usually done by women and passed down from a mother to her daughter and so it travels from one generation to another.

Process

Different kinds of stitching styles are used to create embroidery and create a kind of pattern/design.   Each style has stitch significance and is related to the type of work done by a certain section of people in the erstwhile society.  Some of the designs, the artists do not draw any pattern or design but simply start with the work believing in their instincts.

Kutch embroidery is mainly done in bright colors.  Threads of silk or wool, with shiny gloss are used to reflect the brightness of their works.  They are geometric designs and of birds, mainly peacocks, that are found in that region, of people celebrating life in the form of dance and floral patterns.  Delicate beadwork is also sewn in to bring in the elegance and superior work of the artists. As always, all designs and patterns reflect the happy state of the artist and this happiness is reflected in the finesse of their works.

Designs of animals and birds are done with chain stitch with hooked needles.  Herringbone stitch and fixing of small mirrors, and Aari stitch done by the cobblers or wine stitch are designs that were influenced by the Mughals.  Intricate patterns are at times, stitched on expensive material cloth like silks or satin with metallic threads and mirrors. Another common design is with the use of cross stitch creating circular patterns radiating towards the outer circles.  Satin stitch and double back running stitch, buttonhole stitch and several others used to create wave like pattern in a very extensive hand work

Each tapestry takes about a week or two to finish due to the intricate and exquisite work involved.   Every so high levels of concentration and focus are needed to create a piece of colorfulness and vigor to enliven the homes to attract positive energy to the homes and to our hearts.

Amazing Fact :  It is believed that the mochis or the cobblers were taught embroidery and they mixed their mochi stitch or wine stitch around 300 years ago to start this tradition.  This stitch is a combination of chain stitch and herringbone stitch.  Eventually different kinds of stitching got involved to give its magnificence as a piece.    Kutch Embroidery was adorned by the kings and queens and also seen in the Mughal era.

Your kind encouragement to this art will be really appreciated by the artisans of Gujarat.  The women who do these embroidery are mainly living in rural parts of the country, and are striving to raise their economic level.  A little helping hand will go a long way, and bring upon a smile to their faces.  Help them to give a better living condition to their children by supporting them.

For more information and queries, please feel free to reach us at shiuli@irakoi.com